Day 1 — Arrival in Kona
Our Big Island trip started with an evening arrival at Kona. The flight landed on time, but since it was already after sunset, there wasn’t much of a view—or any chance for those classic aerial Hawaii arrival photos.
Getting from the airport to the rental-car area was straightforward. We picked up a Nissan Altima; unfortunately, there weren’t any further upgrades available to an SUV or 4WD vehicle. For this trip, though, the Altima ended up being perfectly adequate for most of what we planned to do.
From the airport, it was a relatively quick drive into Kailua-Kona and our home for the next four nights: Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel.
First Impressions of the Hotel
The hotel has two main accommodation areas—the Main Tower and West Tower—and our room was in the Main Tower.
If you’re self-parking, both towers use the same parking entrance, but I’d recommend finding a space closer to whichever tower you’re staying in. One resort-like touch I liked was the room key: instead of carrying a traditional key card around, we received a wristband that works as the room key and also opens the parking gate.
As for the room itself, my first impression was… just okay.
It was generally clean and quiet, which are the two things that matter most, but some of the décor definitely showed its age. The carpet and artwork behind the bed in particular felt dated compared with newer resort properties.
One very convenient feature, however, is the ABC Store located inside the hotel. It stays open late, which was perfect after an evening arrival. Hungry but too tired to look for a restaurant, we grabbed a Spam musubi and some yogurt before heading upstairs.
By the time we unpacked and cleaned up, it was already around 10–11 PM Hawaii time—effectively midnight or later to our still-on-LA-time bodies.
That was enough for Day 1.
Day 2 — Kīlauea Iki, Lava Tube & Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach
Jet lag actually worked in our favor the next morning.
We woke up around 5 AM and quickly discovered something useful about the Big Island: quite a few breakfast restaurants open surprisingly early, some around 6 or 7 AM.
Breakfast at 808 Grindz Cafe Kona
Our first stop was 808 Grindz Cafe Kona, a small, no-frills local diner.
The restaurant itself isn’t fancy, but the food was a very pleasant surprise. I ordered the oxtail loco moco, which was rich, flavorful, and easily the highlight of breakfast.
We also tried the seafood pancake. That one was more average and probably wouldn’t be my first choice on a return visit.
Joel’s pick: Get the oxtail loco moco.
After breakfast, we stopped at Walmart to stock up for the day—water, bananas, and some swimming/snorkeling gear for later in the trip.
A Kona Coffee Stop Before the Drive
Before returning to the hotel, we made one more stop at Kona Coffee & Tea.
I ordered a hot Ameri-Kona along with a papaya parfait topped with granola. Both were good, but the coffee was the standout.
Kona coffee has a distinctive acidity that can come across as slightly sour depending on your palate. I can see why it might not be everyone’s preference, but I personally enjoyed it.
After returning to the hotel, we packed hiking shoes, water and some warmer clothing and headed toward Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
The warm clothes, as it turned out, never left the bag.
The hiking shoes absolutely did.
Kīlauea Iki Trail
Our main objective at the national park was the famous Kīlauea Iki Trail.
Before the trip, we’d read that parking at the Kīlauea Iki Trailhead can fill up quickly. Because of the road layout, missing a parking space there can also mean having to continue driving before eventually looping back.
So instead, we made a decision that worked very well.
🅿️ Parking Tip: Try Kīlauea Iki Overlook
We parked at Kīlauea Iki Overlook, about half a mile from the main trailhead.
The lot is considerably larger. It was still busy when we arrived, but we were able to find a space without too much trouble.
I’d absolutely consider doing this again rather than gambling on the smaller lot at the trailhead.
And there’s another bonus: the overlook itself is worth stopping for.
From above, you get a fantastic view across the Kīlauea Iki crater. Look carefully and you’ll even see tiny figures moving across the crater floor—the hikers you’re about to join.
There’s also a useful information board showing the trail layout and surrounding area, which is worth looking at before starting.
Descending Into the Crater
The complete Kīlauea Iki loop is longer than what we wanted to tackle that day, especially since we had several other stops planned.
Instead, our plan was simple: descend to the crater floor, explore part of it, and then turn around and climb back the way we came. Our out-and-back route ended up being roughly 2.5 miles.
The descent is relatively quick, and the transformation in scenery is remarkable.
One moment you’re surrounded by dense green vegetation.
Then suddenly the trees disappear.
You’re standing on the floor of a volcanic crater surrounded by dark rock and an enormous open landscape.
It almost feels like you’ve walked onto another planet.
🎥 Watch the Hike
I’ve also recorded highlights from our Kīlauea Iki hike, including the descent through the forest and our walk across the crater floor.
▶️ Watch on YouTube: https://youtu.be/pAdhdXZ3oBk
A Few Things I Wish I’d Known
Bring enough water. Even if it’s cloudy and relatively cool, the climb back up is still a real hike. We saw plenty of people taking breaks on the ascent, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with doing the same. Go at your own pace.
Wear proper shoes. The crater surface is uneven and some volcanic rocks can be quite sharp. This isn’t somewhere I’d want to take a fall.
Don’t underestimate the weather. We applied plenty of sunscreen because much of the crater floor has absolutely no shade. Ironically, sunshine ended up being the least of our concerns.
What started as a little drizzle gradually turned into steady rain.
We’d brought warmer clothing—but what we really should have packed was a lightweight rain jacket or poncho. Several better-prepared hikers had them, and we were definitely jealous by the end.
Thurston Lava Tube
After climbing back to the main trailhead area, we crossed the road and continued toward another famous attraction: Thurston Lava Tube (Nāhuku).
Walking into an actual lava tube is a fascinating experience and feels completely different from hiking the crater.
Unfortunately, the rain had become heavy enough that exploring comfortably was becoming difficult. We went inside and experienced part of the tube but ultimately decided not to complete the entire walk.
I still recorded a short video of the experience, which I’ll link here.
🎥 Thurston Lava Tube: https://youtu.be/VC_l-rYsWD8
What We Didn’t Have Time For
Altogether, we spent roughly four hours in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
With another full day, I would have loved to explore more.
One thing still on my list is driving the Chain of Craters Road toward the coast and exploring that side of the park.
But sometimes leaving something unfinished isn’t a bad thing.
It gives us a reason to come back.
A Lunch Attempt That Didn’t Work Out
After hiking in the rain for several hours, we were hungry.
We found an online recommendation for a nearby place and decided to give it a try. Unfortunately, once we stepped inside, there was a strong unpleasant odor that made us uncomfortable eating there.
So we changed plans.
And that turned out to be a very good decision.
Punaluʻu Bake Shop — Perfect After a Rainy Hike
On our way toward Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach, we stopped at Punaluʻu Bake Shop, conveniently located about a 10-minute drive from the beach.
This ended up being one of my favorite food stops of the day.
We tried their famous malasadas, choosing taro and guava flavors. Both were excellent.
We also ordered battered fish and the soup of the day, a rich and creamy tomato soup.
After getting soaked during the hike, that bowl of hot soup was exactly what we needed.
Joel’s picks:
🍩 Taro malasada
🍩 Guava malasada
🥣 Whatever hot soup they’re serving after a rainy volcano hike
Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach
From the bakery, it was a short drive to Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach.
Parking was easy during our visit, and the beach itself isn’t particularly large, so this can be a relatively quick stop if you’re incorporating it into a longer day around the southern part of the island.
But visually?
It’s absolutely worth seeing.
The contrast between the jet-black sand, volcanic rocks, ocean and surrounding vegetation creates a landscape unlike the beaches most travelers are used to seeing.
It was extremely windy during our visit, but that didn’t stop us from taking far too many photos and videos.
One Small Tip
Be careful walking barefoot on your way toward the beach.
Some of the rocky areas can be uncomfortable or even painful under bare feet. Once you actually reach the finer black sand, however, it’s surprisingly soft and comfortable to walk on.
We spent roughly an hour there. Unless you’re planning additional beach activities, you probably don’t need to dedicate half a day to the stop.
Back to Kona — TK Noodle & Hot Pot
By this point, we were seriously hungry again.
After the long drive back toward Kailua-Kona, we finished the day at TK Noodle & Hot Pot, another restaurant we’d seen recommended by quite a few people.
We ordered:
- Beef rib ramen
- Thai beef salad
- Taro boba milk tea
Both food dishes were excellent. The beef rib ramen was especially satisfying after a long, wet day outdoors, and the Thai beef salad was another winner.
The taro milk tea was perfectly fine, although it wasn’t particularly memorable compared with the food.
By the time we returned to the hotel, it was already after 8 PM—and our bodies were telling us it was closer to 11 PM back in Los Angeles.
After hiking through rainforest, walking across a volcanic crater, getting caught in the rain, exploring a lava tube, eating malasadas and standing on a black sand beach, there wasn’t much debate about what came next.
Sleep.
Day 2 — Joel’s Takeaways
| Experience | My Take |
|---|---|
| Kīlauea Iki Trail | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Must do |
| Kīlauea Iki Overlook parking | 👍 Good alternative to the smaller trailhead lot |
| Thurston Lava Tube | 👍 Worth combining with Kīlauea Iki |
| Punaluʻu Bake Shop | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Unexpected highlight |
| Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Unique Big Island experience |
| 808 Grindz oxtail loco moco | 🍽️ Would order again |
| TK Noodle & Hot Pot | 🍜 Excellent post-adventure dinner |
| What I’d pack differently | 🌧️ Rain jacket/poncho |
| What I’d add next time | 🚗 More time for Chain of Craters Road |
Day 3 — Snorkeling at Kahaluʻu Bay & Sunset Dinner at CanoeHouse
After the long day of hiking, rain, driving and sightseeing on Day 2, we intentionally kept Day 3 much more relaxed.
The plan was simple:
Morning: snorkeling at Kahaluʻu Bay
Midday: lunch + soccer + nap
Evening: explore Mauna Lani and have a nice anniversary dinner at CanoeHouse
Looking back, this ended up being one of the most relaxing and enjoyable days of the entire trip.
Morning Snorkeling at Kahaluʻu Bay
We wanted to start early, and that turned out to be a very good decision.
The weather that morning was almost completely clear and sunny, which is beautiful for snorkeling but also means the UV gets intense very quickly as you approach midday.
We packed light, ate a few bananas for breakfast and left the hotel at around 8 AM.
Our destination was Kahaluʻu Beach Park, only about a 15-minute drive from downtown Kailua-Kona.
Kahaluʻu Bay is widely recommended as one of the better snorkeling spots for beginners on the Big Island, which made it a natural choice for us.
🅿️ Parking at Kahaluʻu Beach Park
Parking was very easy when we arrived in the morning.
The beach park has a dedicated parking lot with plenty of spaces, although it isn’t free. During our visit, parking was $12 for four hours.
You may be able to find free street parking nearby, but I wouldn’t count on it. Even when we arrived around 9 AM, many of the street spaces were already occupied.
Joel’s Tip
For a first-time visit, I’d probably just pay for the beach parking.
You’re close to the water, you don’t need to circle around looking for a free space, and four hours is more than enough for a typical snorkeling visit.
Renting Snorkeling Gear
Rather than bringing our own equipment, we rented from Kahaluʻu Bay Surf and Sea, a shop we’d seen recommended on RedNote.
It’s only about a five-minute walk from the beach parking lot.
But unexpectedly, one of my favorite photos from the entire morning happened before we even reached the shop.
Along the road, we came across an absolutely stunning tree covered in bright red and pink flowers.
It was impossible to walk past without stopping.
We crossed the road, took a few photos, and continued toward the rental shop.
Sometimes the best travel photos really are the ones you weren’t looking for.
Prescription Snorkeling Masks — A Big Plus
The rental process itself was very smooth.
The staff were friendly and took the time to explain how to use the equipment.
One feature I especially appreciated was that they offered prescription snorkeling masks.
As someone who normally needs glasses, being able to see clearly underwater made a huge difference.
For two sets of snorkeling equipment, including the additional charge for the prescription mask, we paid just under $50 after tax.
The equipment looked clean, and the staff told us everything is cleaned after each rental.
Getting Ready for the Water
We returned to the car, left our valuables behind and headed toward the beach.
Near the entrance, we met one of the volunteers/helpers stationed at an information table.
She was incredibly helpful.
She pointed out that additional reef-conscious sunscreen was available, helped apply anti-fog solution to our masks, and explained that after applying it, we only needed to rinse the lenses once with seawater before putting them on.
She also gave us very clear instructions on where to snorkel.
There were two floats near the water entrance.
Her advice was essentially:
Swim out between the two floats, continue a little farther, and that’s where you’ll start seeing more fish—and possibly turtles.
Simple advice, but extremely useful for first-time visitors.
Snorkeling Kahaluʻu Bay
The conditions couldn’t have been much better.
The water was warm, the sky was clear and the bay felt very approachable for beginners.
Once we got farther away from shore, we started seeing the underwater life that Kahaluʻu Bay is known for.
We spent roughly two hours snorkeling, which felt like plenty for us.
By the time we came back ashore, we were surprisingly tired.
Another thing I appreciated about the park was the availability of multiple outdoor shower/rinse stations, which made it easy to wash off the saltwater before leaving.
🤿 Joel’s Tips for Kahaluʻu Bay
Go early.
Parking is easier, the sun isn’t quite as intense, and you’ll have more energy.
Don’t rely on free street parking.
It fills surprisingly quickly.
Prescription masks are available nearby.
Very useful if you normally wear glasses.
Ask the beach volunteers for advice.
They were genuinely helpful, especially for figuring out where to enter and where to snorkel.
Don’t underestimate snorkeling as exercise.
Two hours in the water left us much more tired than expected.
Lunch at Paʻakai Poke
After returning our equipment, we were definitely ready for food.
We stopped at Paʻakai Poke, a popular local poke restaurant that has fairly limited daytime hours.
One important tip:
Come early.
The restaurant opens around 11 AM, and there was already a substantial line not long afterward.
The restaurant’s own parking lot is also relatively small and fills quickly. Fortunately, there is additional parking in the nearby shopping area, so don’t give up if the spaces directly in front are taken.
We ordered poke along with some pork tacos, and both were excellent.
The poke looked every bit as good as it tasted, and the pork tacos were a pleasant surprise.
Instead of eating there, we took everything back to the hotel.
Soccer, Lunch & a Very Necessary Nap
The timing worked out perfectly because there was a big England vs. France soccer match that day.
So our afternoon became:
poke + tacos + soccer from the hotel room.
And somehow the match turned into a wild, extremely entertaining game with 10 total goals.
Afterward, the combination of an early morning, two hours of snorkeling and a full lunch caught up with us.
We took a very long afternoon nap.
Honestly?
No regrets.
Sometimes the best part of a vacation is allowing yourself to do absolutely nothing for a few hours.
Evening Drive to Mauna Lani
Around 3 or 4 PM, we finally got up, showered and changed for the evening.
Our anniversary dinner reservation was at CanoeHouse, located inside Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection on the Kohala Coast.
I also recorded the drive from Kailua-Kona to Mauna Lani.
🎥 Scenic Drive to Mauna Lani
I’ve uploaded the full drive, including the scenery along HI-19.
▶️ Watch on YouTube: https://youtu.be/JGY6Q8dQEYc
First Impressions of Mauna Lani
We intentionally arrived well before our dinner reservation because we wanted some time to explore the resort.
And I’m very glad we did.
Mauna Lani was probably one of the most visually impressive resorts we visited on the Big Island.
The design isn’t what I think of as a traditional American luxury resort—the dark wood, heavy furniture, “old money” sort of aesthetic.
Instead, Mauna Lani feels much more contemporary and natural.
There are lots of:
- warm wood tones
- natural materials
- clean lines
- open spaces
- understated decorations
- greenery integrated into the architecture
I’m not sure I’d call it strictly Scandinavian, but there’s definitely a similar philosophy of simplicity, natural materials and letting the surroundings become part of the design.
Everything feels intentional without feeling overdesigned.
The Beach
And then there was the beach.
The sand was incredibly soft and light-colored.
Walking barefoot along the shore was one of those moments where the entire trip suddenly slowed down.
No hiking.
No rushing to the next attraction.
No checking directions.
Just ocean, sand and sunset approaching.
It really felt like:
Okay. Now we’re actually on vacation.
Anniversary Dinner at CanoeHouse
Our dinner reservation was for 6 PM, deliberately timed around the approximately 7 PM sunset.
This worked out almost perfectly.
Reservation Tip
Online reservations didn’t initially show the exact time we wanted.
Instead of giving up, we called Mauna Lani directly and asked to be transferred to CanoeHouse.
The restaurant was able to help us secure a better reservation time over the phone.
So if the online system doesn’t show what you want:
call.
It’s absolutely worth trying.
We also noticed a small line forming when we arrived, so walk-ins may sometimes be possible as well—but for a special dinner, I’d still strongly recommend making a reservation.
Ask for an Oceanfront Table
When we checked in, I specifically asked whether it would be possible to sit closer to the beach.
The host kindly accommodated us and placed us in the front row, closest to the sand and ocean.
That was exactly the seating we’d hoped for.
There are also covered dining areas farther inside the restaurant, but we’d seen photos before the trip and knew we wanted the outdoor experience.
For a sunset dinner, I’d definitely ask.
There’s no guarantee—but it costs nothing to ask.
What We Ordered
CanoeHouse has a Japanese-influenced menu, and this became our final big dinner of the trip.
We ordered:
Shokupan Pull-Apart Bread
A great way to start the meal and much more memorable than a typical bread basket.
Lobster Tempura
Probably one of the dishes I’d most strongly recommend.
Grilled Lamb Chops
Rich and very well prepared.
Local Fresh Catch
The fresh catch that evening was swordfish, according to our server.
Garlic Fried Rice
An excellent side for sharing.
Mai Tai
And yes—the Mai Tai was very good.
Sunset at CanoeHouse
But honestly, the meal was only half of the experience.
As we ate, the sun slowly descended toward the horizon.
Kids were playing nearby.
People walked and biked along the paths.
The lawn flowed naturally into the beach.
And right around the dining area was a massive, beautifully maintained tree that somehow tied the whole scene together.
I don’t know what species it was, but visually it almost felt designed specifically for that spot.
Everything—the restaurant, landscaping, beach, architecture and sunset—felt unusually harmonious.
And yes, we got the sunset we’d hoped for.
It was beautiful.
A Small Anniversary Surprise
We were celebrating our anniversary that evening, and toward the end of dinner the chef sent out a complimentary macaron.
It was a small gesture, but a very nice way to end the meal and the evening.
The restaurant also validated our valet parking, which is another useful thing to know when dining there.
Day 3 — Joel’s Takeaways
| Experience | My Take |
|---|---|
| Kahaluʻu Bay snorkeling | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excellent for beginners |
| Best time to go | 🌅 Morning |
| Kahaluʻu parking | $12 / 4 hours during our visit |
| Prescription snorkel mask | 👓 Huge plus |
| Paʻakai Poke | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Go early |
| Mauna Lani resort | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Worth arriving early just to explore |
| CanoeHouse | 🌅 Perfect special-occasion dinner |
| Best restaurant tip | 📞 Call if your desired reservation time isn’t online |
| Best seating tip | 🌊 Ask for a front-row ocean-side table |
| Would I repeat this day? | ✅ Absolutely |
Day 4 — Kona Morning, Kua Bay & Sunset Above the Clouds at Mauna Kea
After several packed days, our final full day on the Big Island started about as casually as possible.
No alarm-driven itinerary. No long drive first thing in the morning.
We simply stepped outside our hotel and started walking.
A Slow Morning Walk Around Kailua-Kona
One advantage of staying at Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel is its location right in downtown Kailua-Kona.
The morning weather was beautiful—cooler than later in the day, with fresh ocean air—so instead of immediately getting into the car, we decided to wander around and find breakfast somewhere along the waterfront.
Walking from the hotel, we passed a beautiful church, several small shopping areas, and one of those very Instagram-friendly “KONA” signs made from greenery where practically everyone stops for a picture.
There are also plenty of little shops, cafés and places selling breakfast, coffee and ice cream, so this is an easy area to explore without any real plan.
Eventually, we ended up at Fish Hopper Kona.
Breakfast with a View at Fish Hopper Kona
Fish Hopper sits slightly elevated above the waterfront, directly across from the ocean.
And honestly, the view was the reason to come here.
From our table, the combination of the ocean, palm trees, railings and structural beams almost framed the scenery like an oil painting.
The food itself was more average.
I ordered a loco moco, while my wife had the crab Benedict. Both were perfectly fine—the kind of breakfast you’d expect from a popular waterfront restaurant—but neither was particularly memorable.
The setting, however, absolutely was.
Joel’s Take
Food: ⭐⭐⭐
View: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Come for the location and enjoy breakfast with the ocean in front of you.
Finally Exploring Our Own Hotel
After breakfast, we walked back toward the hotel and realized something funny:
After staying there for several nights, we had barely spent any time actually exploring the property.
The hotel has its own small beach directly behind it.
It’s certainly not the most impressive beach on the Big Island, particularly compared with some of the places we’d visit later that day, but it’s still a very convenient spot to sit near the water and relax without driving anywhere.
We spent part of the morning there before walking past a bar where a crowd was gathering around the televisions.
There was a major soccer match on.
And just like the previous afternoon, our supposedly productive sightseeing schedule suddenly became much more relaxed.
We went back upstairs, watched the game from the room, and because it ran longer than expected, we ultimately started our afternoon adventure a little later than planned.
Worth it, though.
Maniniʻōwali Beach at Kua Bay
Our first major stop of the afternoon was Maniniʻōwali Beach at Kua Bay.
This was another place we’d repeatedly seen recommended on RedNote.
And this time, the hype was completely justified.
The moment we saw the water, our reaction was basically:
Wow.
The ocean was an almost unreal shade of blue—clear, bright and crystal-like.
The sand was soft and remarkably white.
People were swimming, surfing, setting up beach tents and simply enjoying the afternoon.
Of all the beaches we visited on the Big Island, this was easily one of my favorites.
Honestly, it’s one of the prettiest beaches I’ve visited anywhere.
Unfortunately, we had a Mauna Kea sunset to catch later in the day, so we could only stay for about an hour.
I really wished we’d had longer.
🅿️ Parking Tip for Kua Bay
During our visit, the entrance/parking charge was $20 for the day.
But the bigger issue was parking availability.
The main lot is relatively small compared with the popularity of the beach. Well before reaching the beach itself, we were already seeing cars parked along the roadside.
One thing I’d be particularly careful about:
Check the ground before pulling off the road.
Some roadside areas are fairly smooth, while others are rocky or have a surprisingly steep drop from the pavement.
That may not be an issue for a Jeep or SUV with higher ground clearance, but in a normal sedan, I’d take a few extra seconds to inspect the spot before pulling in.
The last thing you want is to enjoy the beach and then realize your car can’t comfortably get back onto the road.
A Food Detour Through Waikoloa
From Kua Bay, we continued north toward the Waikoloa resort area.
This was close to where we’d had dinner at Mauna Lani the previous evening, but this time we came for something much more casual:
an açai bowl.
Island Vintage Coffee
We had seen an absolutely beautiful photo of an açai bowl from Island Vintage Coffee, so naturally we had to try it ourselves.
And this was one of those rare cases where the real thing lived up to the social-media picture.
The fruit was extremely fresh, the açai itself was excellent, and the honey added just enough extra sweetness.
Definitely worth the stop.
The shop is located in a shopping area with a mixture of local stores and familiar brands, including stores such as Lululemon, so it’s also an easy place to walk around for a while.
Queens’ Marketplace
We then crossed over to Queens’ Marketplace, another large shopping area nearby.
This felt more like a full shopping center than a small resort plaza.
There was a large upscale grocery store, souvenir shops, restaurants and a food court—making it surprisingly useful if you’re staying somewhere around Waikoloa.
We wandered around, grabbed a very good ube smoothie, and then discovered another place we’d already seen recommended online:
Waikoloa Shrimp Co.
Their signature shrimp-and-rice plate was exactly what we came for.
And yes—it was very good.
More Malasadas at Pono Pastries
Right next door was Pono Pastries.
After how much we’d enjoyed malasadas near Punaluʻu on Day 2, there was basically zero chance we were walking past without ordering some.
We asked the person working there which flavors she recommended.
We selected two of the favorites—guava and ube cream—and then she surprised us by adding a third one for free because it was another one of her personal favorites.
I unfortunately can’t remember the third flavor anymore.
But I do remember this:
All three disappeared.
Quickly.
The Main Event: Mauna Kea
With food taken care of, it was finally time for the biggest plan of our final evening:
sunset at Mauna Kea.
Because our rental car wasn’t a 4WD vehicle, we weren’t planning to drive beyond the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station.
Instead, our goal was to drive up to the visitor center, acclimate to the elevation, then hike to a nearby viewpoint for sunset.
And even the drive itself turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.
🎥 Driving to Mauna Kea — Through the Clouds
I recorded the entire drive from the Waikoloa resort area to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station.
▶️ Watch the 4K drive on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/GC8eYXPMlP8
The most interesting part happens near the end.
As Mauna Kea Access Road starts climbing steeply, we entered a thick layer of cloud and fog.
Visibility changed dramatically.
Then, almost suddenly, we climbed through the top of that cloud layer.
Fog disappeared.
The sky became completely clear.
And suddenly the sun was shining above us, seemingly much closer than before.
That transition—from driving inside the clouds to emerging above them—was one of my favorite moments of the entire drive.
It’s much easier to understand when you actually see it, which is why I’d especially recommend watching the last several minutes of the video.
Arriving at the Visitor Information Station
Once we arrived, we didn’t immediately start hiking.
Based on the guidance we’d seen before the trip, we spent some time at the Visitor Information Station first to let our bodies adjust to the much higher elevation.
And I quickly understood why.
I personally began feeling the altitude much more strongly than expected.
We actually had the opportunity to join transportation continuing toward the summit, but after considering how I was feeling, we ultimately decided not to go.
That was a difficult decision.
We’d traveled all the way there, and getting to the summit had been one of the ideas we’d discussed before the trip.
But sometimes the right travel decision is knowing when not to push it.
Instead, we decided to stay around the visitor-station area and hike to a nearby sunset viewpoint.
In retrospect, I think that was absolutely the right choice.
Hiking for Sunset
A ranger stationed near the visitor center was extremely helpful.
We asked her where we could walk for a good sunset view, and she recommended a nearby trail leading up and around one of the hills.
The trail begins across the road from the visitor center.
And don’t worry too much about getting lost—around sunset, plenty of other visitors are generally heading in the same direction.
What to Wear
Before coming, we’d seen plenty of warnings online about how cold Mauna Kea can get.
For our summer visit at the Visitor Information Station elevation, however, it wasn’t nearly as extreme as I’d imagined.
I changed from shorts into long pants, put on a coat, switched from Crocs to proper running shoes, and felt comfortable.
Conditions can obviously vary considerably, though, so I’d still bring layers rather than assuming it will be warm.
Take Your Time at Altitude
This is one place where I would strongly emphasize:
go at your own pace.
Under normal circumstances, the hike we chose wouldn’t have seemed particularly difficult.
But because I was already feeling the effects of the altitude, I needed to stop frequently during what was only around a 30-minute walk.
There is absolutely no prize for reaching the viewpoint five minutes faster.
Rest.
Drink water.
Listen to your body.
Eventually, we made it.
And the payoff was completely worth it.
Sunset Above the Clouds
The view from the hill was spectacular.
From our position, we could see the surrounding volcanic landscape—including a large crater nearby—and broad layers of clouds stretching across the horizon below us.
The famous “sea of clouds” wasn’t quite as dense as some of the dramatic photos we’d seen online, probably because the weather had been so clear that day.
But there were still more than enough clouds to create beautiful photographs.
As sunset approached, the lighting kept changing.
The mountains, clouds and sky all shifted in color.
This became one of those moments where we stopped worrying about what else we hadn’t done on the island and simply enjoyed where we were.
⚠️ One Safety Observation
We saw some visitors—including families with fairly young children—climbing surprisingly far out onto rocky areas near steeper terrain.
Personally, I wouldn’t do that just for a photograph.
You can get fantastic views without approaching exposed edges.
Especially at altitude, where some people may feel dizzy, weak or less coordinated than usual, I’d rather stay conservative and enjoy the scenery safely.
Heading Back Down
Once sunset was over, we began walking back toward the Visitor Information Station.
Fortunately, the return felt much easier.
By the time we reached the parking lot, though, we were exhausted.
There was no temptation to add another stop.
We got back into the car and headed directly toward Kona.
And that was how our final full night on the Big Island ended:
not at a restaurant,
not at a bar,
but driving back down Mauna Kea after watching the sun disappear above the clouds.
A pretty good ending.
Day 4 — Joel’s Takeaways
| Experience | My Take |
|---|---|
| Morning walk in Kailua-Kona | 🌴 Easy benefit of staying downtown |
| Fish Hopper Kona | 🌊 Average food, excellent ocean view |
| Maniniʻōwali / Kua Bay | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ One of my favorite beaches |
| Kua Bay parking | 🚗 Arrive earlier and inspect roadside spots carefully |
| Island Vintage Coffee | 🫐 Açai bowl absolutely worth trying |
| Waikoloa Shrimp Co. | 🍤 Recommended casual stop |
| Pono Pastries | 🍩 More excellent malasadas |
| Drive up Mauna Kea | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Experience in itself |
| Visitor-center sunset hike | 🌅 Excellent alternative to the summit |
| Biggest lesson | ⛰️ Don’t underestimate altitude |
| Would I do it again? | ✅ Absolutely |
Day 5 — Costco Finds, One Last Poke Stop & Back to Los Angeles
Our flight back to Los Angeles wasn’t until around 1 PM, so we still had a little time on our final morning.
Rather than trying to squeeze in another major attraction, we checked out early and kept things simple.
Our first stop:
Costco.
A Quick Stop at Costco Kona
Before the trip, we’d read that Costco locations in Hawaii sometimes carry products that are harder—or impossible—to find on the mainland.
That was enough reason for us to stop.
One item I’d wanted to try for quite a while was a package of beef crisps.
They are very different from traditional beef jerky.
Instead of thick, chewy strips, the beef is sliced extremely thin, dried until crispy, and seasoned very lightly with salt and pepper.
We didn’t actually open them until after getting back to Los Angeles.
And they were excellent.
Very crispy, very savory, and much lighter than the heavily seasoned or sugary beef jerky you often find.
This ended up being one of my favorite small souvenirs from the trip.
Breakfast Around the Costco Area
We then stayed around the same commercial area for breakfast and made two more stops.
Pau Hana Poke
First was Pau Hana Poke.
Simple verdict:
Very good.
After several days on the island, we’d eaten quite a bit of poke, but this was still a worthwhile final stop before heading to the airport.
Pink Mocha Cafe
Our second stop was Pink Mocha Cafe, where I somehow ended up ordering yet another açai bowl.
After the excellent one we’d had at Island Vintage Coffee the day before, I was curious how this one would compare.
The answer:
Different, but also very good.
I wouldn’t necessarily say one was better than the other—they had slightly different flavors and styles, and I enjoyed both for different reasons.
Not a bad way to end breakfast on the Big Island.
Heading to Kona Airport
From there, we drove to the airport, returned the rental car and headed inside.
Kona’s airport feels very different from most major mainland airports.
It’s small, relaxed and largely open-air, which somehow makes the departure experience still feel distinctly Hawaiian.
Security lines weren’t particularly long during our visit, and getting to the gate was straightforward.
One Last Loco Moco
Apparently I still wasn’t finished eating.
Near Gate 3, I found an airport restaurant and ordered—once again—a loco moco.
I don’t remember the restaurant’s name, but surprisingly, the airport version was actually pretty good.
So if you’re leaving Kona and need a quick meal before boarding, I wouldn’t automatically dismiss the airport food.
Sometimes the final loco moco is a good loco moco.
Back to Los Angeles
After roughly five hours in the air, we landed safely at LAX.
And that’s where the relaxing Hawaii trip officially ended.
Because then came the shuttle.
The LAX Budget Parking Shuttle Experience
We had parked at LAX Budget Parking before the trip.
On paper, it seemed like a reasonable choice: cheaper than some of the other airport parking options and connected to the terminals by shuttle.
Our return experience, however, was frustrating enough that I probably wouldn’t use it again.
We reached the designated shuttle area at around 9 PM.
Then we waited.
And waited.
Altogether, it took more than an hour before we finally got onto a shuttle.
During that time, I called several times and was told that a bus was coming, although it might be full.
That turned out to be exactly what happened.
The first shuttle arrived already too full for us to board.
We were told another one would arrive shortly.
“Shortly” ended up meaning another roughly 20-minute wait.
After several days of traveling—and knowing we still had to retrieve the car and drive about an hour home—that was not the ending we’d hoped for.
Joel’s Take
Even if Budget Parking is somewhat cheaper, I personally don’t think the savings were worth that return experience.
Next time, I’d probably try LAX Economy Parking or another option instead.
🚐 Know Your LAX Shuttle
One potentially confusing thing at LAX is that several different buses can use the same general shuttle-pickup area.
During our wait, we saw buses for things such as:
- Budget Parking
- Economy Parking
- Employee Parking
- LAX-it / rideshare connections
- ADA transportation
- FlyAway buses
So don’t simply jump onto the first airport-looking shuttle that arrives.
Check the signage carefully.
Especially after a long flight, it’s an easy mistake to make.
And That’s the Trip
Eventually, we made it back to the parking lot, picked up the car and started the final drive home.
And just like that, five days on the Big Island were over.
We came home with:
volcano mud on our hiking shoes,
too many food photos,
several hours of dashcam footage,
a bag of Hawaiian Costco beef crisps,
and a very long list of places we’d happily visit again.
Day 5 — Joel’s Takeaways
| Experience | My Take |
|---|---|
| Costco Kona | 🛒 Worth checking for Hawaii-specific products |
| Beef crisps | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great take-home snack |
| Pau Hana Poke | 🐟 Very good final poke stop |
| Pink Mocha Cafe | 🫐 Another solid açai bowl |
| Kona Airport | 🌴 Small, easy and pleasantly open-air |
| Airport loco moco | 👍 Surprisingly good |
| LAX Budget Parking | ❌ Would probably not use again |
| Biggest return-home tip | 🚐 Make sure you’re boarding the correct LAX shuttle |
And for the very end of the full article, I’d add one short wrap-up section:
Final Thoughts on Our Big Island Trip
This trip ended up being a great mix of everything we were hoping for: volcano hiking, snorkeling, beaches, scenic drives, good food, resort time and a sunset above the clouds at Mauna Kea.
We definitely didn’t see everything—and that’s probably a good thing.
There are still places we’d like to return for, including more of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, additional beaches, and eventually perhaps the Mauna Kea summit itself.
But for a relatively short first visit, the Big Island gave us an incredible variety of experiences without ever feeling like every day was the same.
Would we come back? Absolutely.
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